
The path from Perm-36 back to the bus stop
The fact that Angelina Lucento, who graduated from Kino 10 years ago, is spending the year in Moscow on a Fulbright scholarship, researching early Soviet art, is pretty interesting in itself. (She’s been working on her doctorate in Art History at Northwestern University.) This year, she’s been posting photographs on Facebook of the food choice in her dorm’s cafeteria and posting messages in Cyrillic almost as often as in English.
She recently wrote about her visit to Perm, a city in the Urals, almost on the edge of Siberia. She went there in mid-winter to give a lecture to art students (and was interviewed for Perm tv!). Getting there involved a nearly 24-hour trip on the Trans-Siberian railroad. While she was there she visited Perm-36, a Stalin-era forced labor camp — the only gulag camp open to the public as a museum.
Angelina writes:
I almost backed out.
The camp is in the middle of nowhere. Not too surprising. You take a bus to an empty crossroads. You request that the driver let you out. You walk 4 km. The road is empty. Nothing but silence. Snow. And rolling hills. It is 21 km to the next town.
I was nervous about doing this own my own. In the middle of nowhere in the Urals. On foot. In -33 C temperatures. It was absolutely irrational, if not stupid.
But.
This morning the sky was a sapphire blue. And buying a ticket to the “Kluchino junction” was so easy and quick. I boarded a bus.
We drove through stunning Ural scenery. Hills. Inclines. Pristine snow. Ice fisherman. Children on cross country skis.
All along the route people asked the driver to stop and let them out at this crossroads or that crossroads. Sometimes a small collection of wooden houses with smoke puffing from their chimneys could be seen in the distance. Sometimes not.
Some passengers were met by relatives on snowmobiles. Some seemed content to walk to the villages in the distance. If they could do it, I could too.
I asked the driver to let me off at Kluchino junction. I asked him to point the way to Perm-36. “Straight down that road,” he said. “In Kluchino.”
He pulled away and I was alone. No other buses. No other cars. Just an abandoned gas station. And some decaying wooden houses. And a winding road. Open snowscape. Fir trees. White birch. Absolute silence. And a sign that said “Kluchino, 2.5 km.”
I walked. And walked. There were fresh human footprints in the snow. I found this reassuring. I walked some more.
I crossed a bridge over a frozen stream, and realized that the snowscape on my left was really a large frozen river bed.
I walked. Past three or four wooden houses with elaborate eave carvings. This was the village of Kluchino.
I saw a babushka. The oldest I’ve ever seen. And tiny. Smaller than me. Even in her thick felt boots.
I asked her how to get to Perm-36. She didn’t understand. So I asked her how to get to the Gulag. She said, “Straight ahead. Right over there.” Then she asked me for a 1,000 rubles.
I saw a smokestack. A watchtower. And old cement and glass building. And a forbidding green gate.
The babushka didn’t lie. The sign next to the gate said “Memorial Museum Perm-36. Gulag.” I tried to open the gate. It was locked. I rang the bell. A security guard emerged from the main building and glared at me. Said nothing, and then went back inside. I followed him. I wasn’t sure if I should. But I did. He didn’t protest.
There was a ticket “kassa.” A blond woman in a grey shawl appeared out of nowhere. “Yes?” she said.
“Is this the museum of the Gulag Perm-36?”
“Yes.”
“Oh thank goodness. I was worried I wouldn’t be able to find it.”
“You know the entrance fee is 50 rubles, right?” I could tell she didn’t trust me.
“Yes. And I’d like a guided tour.”
“Well that will cost 550 rubles total.” She still seemed unsure that I was serious. I don’t think they see many lone female tourists, who appear to blow in out of nowhere. Most foreigners arrive in expensive taxis from Perm. Or on excursion buses. Most Russians come in organized groups, usually with schoolchildren.
I told her I wanted the tour and the entry ticket.
Then Galina appeared. She spoke English first. Then French. I asked if I could have the tour in Russian. She smiled very warmly. And the blond woman retreated respectfully. Clearly Galina was the boss.
I have had many guided tours in Russia. But Galina was the warmest tour guide I’ve ever met. And she let me ask questions along the way. And she knew the answers. She told me she studied the history of the camp in the archives. In Chusovoi (the next real town, 21 km away). And in Perm. She told me that when she was a girl, and first heard there was a “camp” near her town, she tried asking about it. No one could tell her much. They said it was a camp for the worst, most dangerous “enemies of the country.” She was still curious. She would find out more.
I should say right now that Perm-36 had three historical stages:
From 1946-1953 it was a mixed camp for common criminals and political prisoners.
From 1953-1972 it was a camp for “elite” political prisoners. Those who had worked closely with Beria and such.
From 1972-1987 it was a maximum security prison for political prisoners only. Enemies of the people and the Soviet state.
This is what life was like in Per
The average prisoner:
Was brought to Perm-36 in a sealed cattle wagon on a train, and then blindly transferred to a truck bed, which was also sealed. Prisoners were not allowed to view the surrounding scenery. So they wouldn’t know exactly where in the Soviet Union they were. Some times the truck drivers drove around and around and around to add to the effect of disorientation.
(But one prisoner from Estonia was a biologist. And bird expert. He listened to the bird song outside his cell in solitary confinement. He determined he was in the central Urals.)
When the prisoners arrived their civilian clothes were taken away and stored, just like in prisons in the US. They were given prison stripes. Women were subjected to a body cavity search.
Inside. They lived in a group barracks. About twenty people to one room. Bunks were hard wooden benches. The “elite” prisoners were issued mattresses. No linens of any kind.
Eight hours a day, every day, except for Soviet holidays (7 November (Day of the October Revolution) and 1 May (International Labor Day)) in the camp sawmill. They were paid a salary. Most of which they used to pay for their rations. With what was left they could buy cigarettes and writing paper. They could write two letters home a month. There was no limit on the number of letters they could receive. They bathed once a week, in the community banya. Here they also washed their prison clothes. All toilets were outside, in the cold. The elite had toilets in their barracks. As well as basins for shoe cleaning and hand washing. These were covered with concrete in 1972. Cold outdoor toilets only after that.
There was a library. You could read all of Marx, Engels, Lenin, and Stalin. A movie theatre. A red corner. And a reading table (think Rodchenko, workers’ club: seriously. I was surprised too.) And Pravda. And Isvestia. And such. Listening to the political news was a mandatory part of the work day. And took place right after roll call.
Things were different in the zone of the camp that is cordoned off by combination of fence, barbed wire, German shepards, and guards with guns. This zone was for enemies of the people and traitors to the Motherland. Solitary confinement: No daylight. 45 minutes of exercise/day. From 8 until 8.45 pm. That is, under the cover of darkness.
Some “solitary” cells housed four inmates. Hard wooden bunks. One hole for the toilet. A washbasin with water in the morning and again in the evening.
Sometimes prisoners in these area were released from solitary for work. They made internal electronic switches for Soviet irons. If you own a Soviet iron, as Galina said she does, its innards were probably produced at Perm-36, in a work room right next to the solitary cells.
Eight hours a day. On your feet. Twisting tiny pieces of wire. In an unheated room. With a concrete floor. Day after day after day after day. No natural light. No fresh air. Just cold and repetition.
Female prisoners usually tried to get pregnant if they could. Two months before the birth and two months after they didn’t have to work. The babies were kept not with them, but near them on the camp territory. They were allowed breaks to breastfeed. But after the babies grew too big for breastmilk, they weren’t allowed to stay in the camp. They were either sent to relatives. Or sent to an orphanage.
If a prisoner died, a telegram was sent to his or her family. It said simply, “XX died.” Bodies were removed and buried in a nearby village, about 3 km away. Recently, families have returned to try to reclaim and rebury some remains. This is a difficult task.
I asked Galina what the villagers knew about the camp. She said next to nothing. They were told what she was told. It was a camp for dangerous enemies. They were not allowed to go near it. The guards, professional Soviet infantrymen and officers, lived on the camp complex and received significant financial compensation for this burden. The only outside workers were the women who cooked the rations. And they were sworn to secrecy and silence.
This museum is exceptionally well done. I recommend it. I’d like to see more institutions like it. Not just in Russia. But in America. And in the places we’ve tried to occupy. We talk about transparency. We claim we value it. We should live it.